Window Tints(Part 3:Rear Window)

For the back window, most shops will do them in one or two peices(depending of course on your vehicle make and model). this step is accomplished by the heat shrinking method. This is a very tricky technique, and is very easy to mess up if you dont know what you are doing. Again taking your time with this step is essential.

Lets get started.

If you can't heat shrink the film for the rear window, you can use seamed pieces, usually 4 pieces of film will lay flat on most rear windows, some can be done in fewer strips(which ever you fell most comfortable with or in case were patience is wereing thin(ME)). Cut the strips so that the pieces will overlap each other on a defroster line (if the car has them), then, when you are laying the film inside you can cut both pieces at once along the line, to make a 'butt seam'.

Make sure to use new high quality stainless steel razor blades to reduce unavoidable glass scratches. Try not to use carbon razor blades or olfa knives on glass, the will almost certainly scratch the glass, especially on the outside! Most rear car windows have a compound curve, a curve on the horizontal plane and a curve on the vertical plane(up and down/left and right). This prevents the window from being tinted with a single piece of tint.

A good analogy is trying to wrap paper around a basketball, the paper will not lay flat without creases and folds. One way to overcome this is the same way a basketball is made, with pieces and seams. Most rear windows can be done in four pieces of tint with three seams. The seams can be hidden by the horizontal defroster element. You should first cut all of your pieces to shape, and then install them.

word to the wise: make sure that the razor blades that you use are new, high quality stainless steel blades, other wise you could stratch the glass.

Preparing the rear window for film installation should be done after all the film has been cut. Spray the inside of the glass with soapy water and scrub it with a dish sponge, paying extra attention to the edges. Squeegee the glass dry and wipe with a paper towel to lift up any residue the ceramic edge gives off, (This will help the film to stick to the dots.) and spray the window again, this time squeegee very carefully to get all of the water off. Now flush the window from the top down, avoiding the very top and the dots, if the window has them, to prevent dirt from bleeding down. Just flush the area thats going to receive the strip of film.

Lay the cut film on the wet table, so you can pull the liner off without it laying over onto itself (if dry adhesive surface touches itself you will need to start over as it will stick firm causing you to issue a few choice words).

Wash the windows in preparation to receive the film one at a time. For the back window, use a white dish scrubber not a green one (it will scratch), go peel the film, and spray it with soapy water too, pick it up and lay the film onto the wet inner glass, position it until its just right, use the squeegee to get as much water out as possible, then lay the next piece, squeegee both, then cut along the defroster line to make a butt seam making sure not to cross and cut any defroster lines as they will no longer work, also some cars have the radio antenna on the window with the same type of line, do not cut these as your antenna will not work anymore! Remove the cut away pieces as you lightly spray soapy water where you lift the film away from the glass, squeegee out the seam, then lay the next strip and so on.

After you apply the film wait a little while before you put the panels back on, or removing the masking tape from the flap. After all the film is laid and cut, here and there parts of it might pop up, push them down with a bondo card then blot any excess water from the window film with paper towels.

If you are still with me, proceed to Part 4